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Guided Rock Climbing at Red River Gorge
Kentucky’s Daniel Boone National Forest contains many exciting natural wonders that are sure to pique anyone’s interest. However, the centerpiece of this region is the Red River Gorge. This massive gorge is part of a scenic geological area with numerous rock formations and cliffs that are perfect for outdoor activities. This includes rock climbing.
Thousands of rock-climbing enthusiasts visit the Red River Gorge to take on the region’s unique topography each year. You too can join these thrill seekers by checking out one of the many guided rock-climbing spots in the region.
Some people would recommend consulting a Red River Gorge climbing guidebook to find the best rock-climbing spots. However, we have condensed information on what we consider to be the best guided rock-climbing Red River Gorge has to offer in this article. So start your journey using our list below!
Why Red River is Perfect for Guided Rock Climbing
Before we get to our list, it is worth examining why Red River Gorge is perfect for rock climbing.
The Red River Gorge region we see today formed over the course of millions of years. The entire region was once underwater, which led to creation of numerous hardened sandstone layers. These sandstone layers eventually became exposed at the surface due to erosional forces, leading to the hundreds of sandstone cliff faces we see today that are perfect for guided rock climbing.
You don’t need to look far to see the vast quantity of climbable rock faces scattered throughout this region. However, Red River Gorge residents and climbing enthusiasts from across the nation have explored the area over the decades and have designated certain spots as the best for climbers of different skill levels.
The Best Guided Rock-Climbing Spots in Red River Gorge
Red River Gorge has no shortage of excellent rock-climbing spots. We have listed our favorites below.
Caver’s Route
Caver’s route is one of the most popular climbing spots in Red River Gorge. This spot is also one of the oldest in the region. No one knows when exactly this spot was discovered, but many locals claim a group of cave explorers began using it for practice back in the 1950s.
When you take on the Caver’s Route, you will get to ascend a large fracture that separates the south portion or Tower Rock from the rest of the formation
Diamond in the Crack
Diamond in the Crack is an aptly named climbing spot as part of the Jewel Pinnacle. This technical rock climb route has a difficulty of 5.6 and is located slightly under a mile east of KY 715 and KY 77’s intersection. Visitors can park close to the Gladie Creek Visitors Center before crossing a field Southwest of the location.
You can climb this line using the dirty cracks to the right of the overhang. This climb’s second section requires you to ascend a dihedral to get to the summit 125 feet above. Following this, you can descend the Jewel Pinnacle’s backside.
Bedtime for Bonzo
Named after the 1951 American comedy film starring former President Ronald Reagan, Bedtime for Bonzo is a top rope route near the Fortress with a difficulty of 5.6. To get here, cross the river using the Iron Bridge and follow the road until the KY 715 meets the KY 77. Then take the KY 77 for 200 meters before parking on the roadside.
Once you’re on foot, cross the road and follow the path taking you up the hill. Once you reach the Fortress Wall, take a left and cross the turret. You should encounter the dihedral around 50 feet past this point.
Climb this dihedral followed by a smaller one. Then move right under the overhang and use the right-leaning crack to make your way through.
Roadside Attraction
Roadside Attraction is one of the most popular places for climbing at Red River Gorge. This climb has a length of 140 feet and a difficulty of 5.7. It is also on private property so you will need to obtain a daily permit for each person in your climbing group. You can get this permit through the Graining Fork Nature Preserve office or website.
You can get to Roadside Attraction by driving 6 miles South of Slade on the KY 11. Park your car on the gravel lot in the area and follow the trail that leads up the hill.
Casual Viewing
Casual Viewing is a long technical climb with a difficulty of 5.7. You can get here by driving 4.8 miles south on the KY 11 from the Junior Williamson rest area. Once you reach an area with a grassy pull on the right, park your car and get on the trail across the road. This trail will split at a boulder, so take the right fork and keep going until you cross two ravines.
You should then move uphill until you come across an arete. Take a right from here and walk along the wall for 500 meters to reach the dihedral climbing spot.
Whiteout
Whiteout is a technical rock climb route with a difficulty of 5.8 that can be completed in just under two hours. It is part of a climbing region called Emerald City, which is part of a bigger area called Lady Slipper.
You can reach Whiteout by first driving 4.8 miles south from the Junior Williamson Rest Area on the KY 11. Stop your vehicle once you reach the grassy pull and move towards the trail across the road on foot. Follow this trail until you reach a boulder that divides the trail. Take the split trail’s left fork and keep walking until you reach the foot of the rock. Then turn left and walk for 400 feet until you reach the wall’s arete.
Arachnid
Arachnid is a traditional climbing route with a difficulty of 5.8 that takes you to the top of Tower Rock. You can get here by first driving North from Nada and turning right at the Red River. Then keep driving East and continue for two miles after crossing the road to Frenchburg. Continue along the KY 715 for another 4.4 miles and then take the trail uphill until you reach a massive boulder.
Keep moving along this trail until it forks. Then take the right fork and continue through the forest until you reach Tower Rock’s north east side.
Autumn
This traditional climbing route has a difficulty of 5.9 and can be completed in under two hours. To get here, go North on KY 77 from the Tunnel region. Take the Iron Bridge and cross the Red River. Once you reach the turn for French burg, turn left instead of right. Follow this road for the next 700 feet and park your vehicle.
Once you’re on foot, move north until you reach a long wall. You will find Autumn in the middle of this wall.
Rock Wars
Rock Wars is a traditional climbing route with a difficulty of 5.10.
You can reach Rock Wars by first driving east from Nada Tunnel and taking the steel bridge over Red River. Take a left immediately after crossing the bridge and keep driving for around 1.3 miles until you find a pull out that overlooks the river. Park here and start hiking on the old road across this pull out.
This trail will eventually reach a wall before forking. Take the right trail on the fork and keep hiking until you reach an alcove. The crack on the right side will be Rock Wars.
Guided Rock-Climbing Services in Red River Gorge
If you would like to explore Red River Gorge’s climbing spots with a guide, you are in luck! There are numerous Red River Gorge guided climbing businesses in the region that are suited for people of different skill levels. Here are some of our favorite ones:
57 Hours
57 hours is a special service that connects visitors with local guides in different locations. This service is also available in Red River Gorge, so you will definitely be able to find a talented guide who can show you around the best climbing spots.
The beginner rock climbing Red River Gorge packages include:
● Half a day climbing trip with the help of a private guide.
● A fully customizable day-long climbing trip with the help of a private guide
● Intro to traditional climbing course
● Gym to crag climbing transition course
57 Hours uses both independent guides as well as guides from Bluegrass Climbing School. People who sign up for packages will receive technical climbing gear. However, you will still need to bring your own personal equipment.
Red River Climbing Guides
Red River Climbing Guides is an independently owned guidance service located in Red River Gorge. They offer customizable guided rappelling and climbing courses for people of all skill levels and ages.
The service’s guides have over 17 years of experience and are experts on safe climbing techniques and procedures. You can sign up for courses such as:
● Rappelling
● Top-Rope Climbing
● Traditional Climbing
● Lead Climbing
● Gym to Crag
● Bolting and Route Development
Southeast Mountain Guides
Southeast Mountain Guides is also based in Red River Gorge. This business offer services including:
● Guided Climbing
● Guided Rappelling
● Via Ferrata
You can book a half day trip lasting 4.5 hours or a full day trip lasting 8 hours. This business takes clients on a reservation basis only, so be sure to book your climbing outing in advance. Each trip is private and includes only your group and the instructor.
Southeast Mountain Guides’ instructors are able to train people of all skill levels and ages. This makes them the perfect choice for people with zero climbing experience who would like to experience Red River Gorge’s sandstone walls head-on under the guidance of a professional.
Via Ferrata
The best beginner rock climbing experience!
Find a climbing experience like no other on the Red River Gorge’s only Via Ferrata! This climbing path spans ¾ of a mile of rugged sandstone cliff line, equipped with cables to clip into, and iron hand- and foot-rungs just where you need them to hold onto and step on.
*Must be 10 years of age or older to participate on our Via Ferrata!
Where to Find Rock Climbing Gear in Red River Gorge
If you reach Red River Gorge without any climbing gear, don’t worry! Miguel’s Rock-Climbing Shop has you covered. This shop features a massive collection of rock-climbing shoes, climbing apparel, and other climbing gear.
If you don’t want to shell out hundreds of dollars on climbing shoes, you can rent them instead. This shop is also famous for its pizza parlour with 45 topping options, wine and beer services, and oven baked dishes. Miguel’s Rock-Climbing Shop is an essential rest stop for anyone on their way to Red River Gorge.
Where to Stay in Red River Gorge
While many rock-climbing enthusiasts enjoy camping outdoors in Red River Gorge, there’s no reason you can’t indulge in a bit of comfort and luxury during your stay in the region. After all, few things are more satisfying than coming home to a comfortable cabin after a long day of rock climbing.
If you would like to book a cozy cabin for your trip to Red River Gorge, consider checking out the selection we offer at Red River Gorge Cabin Getaways. We are a family-owned business that has been operating for over 15 years.
We love welcoming visitors to Red River Gorge Cabin Getaways and providing them with accommodations that serve as a comfortable home base for their activities in the region. Please contact us to learn about the cabins we currently have available or to learn more about the different activities you can do in Red River Gorge. Give Tristan a call at 502-777-7780
Welcome to
Red River Gorge Cabin Getaways! We are a family focused and guest-oriented group of cabin rental owners that enjoy providing the best experience possible! That is because we are just one big family ourselves and we understand that the focus of a vacation should be spending time with those you care about. Our goal is to make that process as simple, easy, and affordable as possible, the way it should always be! Call Tristan today @
502-777-7780 to rent a cabin!
Red River Cabin Getaways LLC
Campton, KY 41301
Red River Gorge Cabin Getaways offer a large variety of rental accommodations from cozy two-person cabin dens to high end cabins that sleep up to 16—and everything in between, located in Red River Gorge, Kentucky.
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